Jissoin A 400-Year-Old Hidden Gem in Historical Context
Where Past Meets Present in Setagaya
An Unusual Memorial
Adding to Jissōin's unique character is a gravestone inscribed with "Takahashi Korekiyo." This is unusual grave isn't for Takahashi Korekiyo himself, who served as Prime Minister, but it is for his trademark beard. His actual grave is located in one of the largest cemetery parks in Tokyo, which stretches from Fuchu City to Koganei City, a little away from Setagaya. This might seem peculiar, yet when considering global customs of venerating relics – Christian relics or Shariden halls for Buddha's remains – it is quite interesting that something similar is being done for a Japanese Prime Minister. Even though Takahashi Korekiyo was skilled in economic policy and was popular, it is still a very unique tomb.
A Hermitage Steeped in Fate
Jissōin stands on the very ground where Kira Ujitomo (吉良氏朝) once had his hermitage, a place steeped in history and the tide of the fate. Ujitomo was the head of a family related to the well-known Kira Kozukenosuke (喜良上野介), a figure often portrayed as the villain in the beloved Chushingura (Tale of the 47 Ronin). From the 1300s, they held sway over this area, Setagaya Castle being their base of operations, until the mid-1400s.
The Chushingura Tale and Two Kira Clans
Speaking of the Chushingura incident of 1701, the Kira Kozukenosuke involved belonged to the Mikawa Kira clan. Tragically, this lineage met its end – a fate known as Kaieki (改易, deprival of samurai status and property/ forfeiture) – as a consequence of the events. In contrast, the Ōshū Kira clan, to which Kira Ujitomo belonged, navigated a different path through history. While historically linked to the Makida name, they initially adopted "Makida" out of deference to the more prestigious Mikawa Kira main family. However, later, in the aftermath of events linked to the Chushingura narrative (though indirectly), they formally embraced the "Kira" surname. This strategic move ultimately resulted in the Tokugawa shogunate recognizing them as Kōke (高家), a high-ranking family, solidifying the Ōshū Kira clan's status throughout the Edo period. Consequently, the Setagaya Kira clan, descending from this Ōshū Kira lineage, is distinct from the original Mikawa Kira clan.
The Simple Grandeur of Setagaya Castle
As mentioned in the previous paragraph, the base of power for the Ōshū Kira clan was this Setagaya region, and its symbol was Setagaya Castle. The Setagaya Castle is unlike castles such as Osaka Castle, which have keeps and stone walls. It is a modest castle featuring only earthen mounds and moats, characteristic of castles before the Sengoku period. The beautiful cherry blossoms that are now indispensable to castles are planted for tourism purposes in the peaceful modern era with an emphasis on aesthetics. It is said that pre-Sengoku period castles had no decorations because trees were cut down for defense reasons.
A Noble Family's Journey of Survival
The Kira family, who used Setagaya Castle from the 1300s to the mid-1400s as their main base, became subordinate to the Odawara Hojo clan in the mid-1500s and stabilized their position. However, when Toyotomi Hideyoshi destroyed the Hojo clan in 1590, they lost their backing and fled to Oyumi, Shimousa Province (千葉市下総国生実：present-day Chiba City, Chiba Prefecture). After Toyotomi Hideyoshi completed his conquest and granted the Kanto region to his vassal Tokugawa Ieyasu, Kira Ujitomo received a summons back to Setagaya and allowed to establish residence near Setagaya Castle. That place was Jissōin, and he spent his later years there, where I wrote the story for this story began.
The Height of Samurai Society
When Ujitomo's son succeeded to the headship of the Kira family, they were treated with courtesy by the Tokugawa family and were appointed to the very high position of "Koke(高家)" who were in charge of ceremonies for the Edo shogunate. Koke held a higher status than daimyo and played an important role, even to the extent of representing the shogun in audiences with the Emperor. The Kira family, along with the Oshu-Kira family and the Mikawa-Kira family, received immense patronage from the Edo shogunate. The fact that there were only about 20 Koke families throughout the nation shows how highly the Kira family was regarded by the shogunate.
Lineage, Knowledge, and Connections
Now, one might ask, how did the Kira family, former retainers of the defeated Hojo clan come to be so highly valued by Tokugawa Ieyasu and attain the prestigious rank of Kōke? The reason lies in their distinguished lineage as a branch family of the Ashikaga clan, the shogunate family of the Muromachi Shogunate, and their possession of deep knowledge of the ceremonial practices of the Muromachi Shogunate and connections to the Imperial Court.
The Muromachi Legacy
The Muromachi Shogunate was a traditional government that lasted for over 200 years and established many ceremonial practices. The Kira family was a prestigious family positioned as the head of the "Go-ikka(御一家)," second only to the shogun in the Muromachi Shogunate, and was well-versed in the ceremonial practices of the Muromachi Shogunate. Furthermore, they had deep ties with the Imperial Court, and their knowledge and connections were indispensable for building smooth relationships with the formally superior Imperial Court in a samurai society.
The power of Tradition
What is necessary for rituals is authority cultivated over a long period. Taking modern-day tea ceremony, flower arrangement, and martial arts as examples of traditional Japanese accomplishments, each movement is imbued with meaning, and it is precisely because of their continuous tradition that we perceive formality and refinement. If these were created by a recently established venture company or a manners instructor, we would feel suspicion and cheapness, sensing inauthenticity and shallowness. Even rituals that seem strange to outsiders, if they are underpinned by a long history and tradition, we can find inherent value in them.
Governing Through Ceremony
These ceremonial practices were indispensable to the Tokugawa Shogunate's system. The Shogunate placed a strong emphasis on clarifying hierarchy to manage daimyo and nobles, and rituals were central to this purpose. They meticulously systematized rituals for all occasions. These rituals, along with their connections to the Imperial Court, were crucial for the Shogunate to establish authority and maintain social order. The Kira family, who were well-versed in both, were irreplaceable assets to the shogunate.
A Journey Through History, Etched in Stone
In this way, Jissōin is not only a place with beautiful scenery but also deeply connected to the history of the Kira family, and by extension, to Japanese history. Historical traces can be felt in every corner of the temple grounds, such as the moss-covered stone lanterns and the quiet tomb of Takahashi Korekiyo's beard. Visiting Jissōin will be a special experience that not only soothes you with beautiful scenery but also exposes you to Japanese history, the weight of which is like these big stones in that photo, massive and enduring.
